on the train and our kind host, Lai, welcomed us to his homestay through sleepy eyes. After a quick nap and shower, we were off on rented bikes from Lai through the surrounding countryside. We pedaled our way through rice paddies, surrounded by limestone cliffs dotted with the occasional goat, having to navigate around cows jackknifed in the road. Our first stop was Bich Dong pagoda, which is built among and within caves. We went behind the first evident temple and ascended through a cave and came out on the other side of the mountain where we were greeted with an aerial view of where we had just ridden and another pagoda.
Continuing our bicycle adventure, we rode into the small town of Tam Coc where you can hire a local boat guide to paddle you up the river to visit some caves and see the limestone cliffs from the river. We decided to forego the boat, but ride our bikes up the riverside instead. On this adventure, we came upon another temple and a large cemetery filled with tombs, cows grazing among the villagers’ ancestors. We stopped on the dirt route to take some photos and a local family asked us to join in theirs. Not many Westerners make it to these parts, evidently. The locals were very curious and friendly towards us. Making our way back into town, it was time for a steaming hot bowl of revival – local beef pho. Lai’s brother owned a lunch spot so we decided to give him our business. Now, this bowl is what I wish instant noodles could be – simple, salty and comforting – where you can taste every minute of every hour it was simmered with every sip of broth. If you’re a purist, leave off the cilantro and lime, but you know me and fresh herbs – never pass up an opportunity to add greens. To top off this umami, I grabbed a fresh-cut lime with chile and salt at the market across the street and we pedaled on.
After finishing out the afternoon on wheels and squeezing in a nap, we wandered back to town for dinner. We went to Lai’s restaurant for a feast of pork spring rolls and fried rice (can’t believe I was tired of pho) and washed it down with his mom’s rice wine. She adds either coconut or banana and lets it sit for 4-5 months.
The next day we woke up early and rode to Hang Mua (dancing dragon) for a 6 am hike of 500+ stairs. But after climbing the dragon’s back, we ascended the staircase adjacent to the dancing dragon to be greeted by two goats on the base of the 5-tiered tower, surrounded by Vietnamese music wafting through the Tam Coc valley and roosters crowing. It was so calm and peaceful to have the entire peak to ourselves and the goats. On our descent, Vietnamese travelers started making their way up and it started to get busier. Just when you feel like a gross traveler in baggy rain pants drenched in your own sweat, a Vietnamese girl comes up and totally fan-girled and wanted to take her picture with us. Further down, other youths were calling out, “ “Hello, what is your name?” practicing the little English they knew but laughing all the same. We waved to the grazing water buffalo as we rode back into town for an egg coffee.
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